Decadent teas

I am extremely particular about patisserie. My exacting standards no doubt stem from my granny and mother’s prowess in cake-making rendering most shop-bought imitations resistible.

Pierre Hermé is another matter. I was transfixed by his utterly chic boutique in Paris (72 rue Bonaparte 75006) selling the most exquisitely and intensely fragrant macarons echelons above his nearest rivals. At this year’s Madrid Fusion gastro-conference showcasing the latest culinary thinking of some of the world’s more avant-garde chefs, Hermé demonstrated his latest savoury patisserie using mint and peas in all manner of patisserie guises including his much emulated “emotions”, multi-layered, flavoured and textured desserts in a shot glass. He gave the air of being a little bored with his sweet creations.

However, last week Hermé appeared to have regained his sweeter tooth to visit Claridge’s and demonstrate his legendary fetish patisserie haute classic collection: studies on three themes or “parfums”: “ispahan”, rose, raspberry and lychee; “satine” orange and passion: and “plenitude” dark chocolate with fleur de sel, cocoa nibs and caramel. Each was presented firstly as sweet sandwiches with fillings of intense almost perfumed fruit jellies of orange/passion fruit, raspberry/rose and a rich chocolate gianduja. I loved the scones which continued the theme and fully intend to experiment with the cocoa-nib version myself – wonderful with really good slightly salted French butter. Next up was a sublime wobbling, ethereally light passionfruit and orange cheesecake, a world apart from the usual stodgy offerings. Almost too chic to eat, the ispahan emotion with layers of lychee and raspberry jelly, fresh raspberries, compote and rose cream made for an exquisite palate cleanser. I followed instructions to delve the teaspoon all the way to the bottom for the full multi-textural experience. Of course, the legendary macarons were the piece de resistance: delicate hues of rose pink, palest tangerine and deep dark chocolate filled with a wonderful fleur de sel and chocolate ganache filling. They have a complex, yet utterly light texture that dissolves decadently on the tongue, yet is not as sweet as those found in the pale green Ladurée box more regularly invoked in London. Sadly, the macarons are only available at Hermé’s shops in Paris, which don’t have cafes of their own. Those in the know go to the neighbouring café de Maire (8 rue de Sulplice) his unofficial salon du thé. Here for the price of a coffee/tea the waiters in the upstairs salon look on indulgently as impatient foodies discreetly unwrap their precious Hermé trophies from quite the most covetable bags – like Matisse cut-out works of art in themselves. But the word is that Hermé was scouting London for possible sites for the future.
In the meantime, Claridge’s, undoubtedly the most elegant place for tea in London with its mesmerising elegant art deco details and spectacular chandelier have invited Herméback later in the year (www.claridges.co.uk)


Meanwhile, for an extreme patisserie challenge, Andrew Gravett, the highly talented head of patisserie at London’s two Michelin star Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge offers workshops on making one’s own macarons: a complex process involving Italian meringue, crème patisserie and much more. Ideally each stage is allowed to rest for a day before proceeding. It puts the prices of Hermé and other macaronniers in perspective. Fortunately Gravett’s course includes more achievable and repeatable petits fours and chocolates too. (Next dates 3 April, 5 June, 4 Sept bookings 7591 1215 www.capitalhotel.co.uk) .

Still on the tea trial, the newest, deeply glamorous place for tea is Artesian the contemporary Geisha boudoir style cocktail bar designed by David Collins within The Langham Hotel. Madonna has already held a party here. The teas were devised with the help, of former canapé Queen, now food consultant Lorna Wing and include tiny sandwiches each impeccably matching filling to specialist bread such as Wiltshire ham and wild rocket with mustard butter on light rye, tiny cheese and pancetta, triple citrus and coconut and lime muffins, teacup and saucer iced biscuits, glittery cupcakes , Ladurée macarons and mousse shots. As Artesian is also a cocktail bar, tea can be served with a rum cocktail or Laurent Perrier Rose. (Langham Hotel, Portland Place, W1 0207 636 1000 tea £25 per person (£38 with champagne/rum cocktail).