Degustation menus
I firmly believe there’s a time and a place for tasting menus. Often I only want to sample one or two dishes, which instantly leap out from a menu. I don’t necessarily want the waiter telling me exactly how many degrees each component of the menu has been cooked at nor whose nephew-in-law foraged for the chickweed whilst the dish in question is visibly wilting and cooling to below tepid. Apparently at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York, it is now only possible to order the dizzly priced $250 degustation. Keller’s justification is that it is important to experience the entire experience, otherwise he says diners are doing the equivalent of leaving at play at the interval and not getting the whole plot.
I know John Campbell of The Vineyard at The Stockcross elevated earlier this year to 2 Michelin star is a Keller devotee. I loved the prospect of his approach to putting on the whole razzmatazz show as a week long “Chef’s Table” gourmet festival extravaganza whilst still serving his stunning a la carte in the restaurant. Though dinners with Angela Hartnett and Mark Edwards of Nobu were tempting I opted for Campbell himself and was blown away.
There was a real sense of playfulness about his menu besides a strong commitment to sourcing locally. I loved the deconstructed “room service” classics served as amuse such as a blt of lettuce espuma, tomato confit, crispy bacon and breadcrumbs and fish and chips with ultra-light whip of fluffy potato, scallops and sprinkles of salt and air-dried malt vinegar in twists of newspaper.
Plasma screens strategically placed around the dining room ensured we could see exactly how each dish was constructed and meticulously plated at the pass without experiencing the sweat of the kitchen. It has to be one of the calmest kitchens anywhere. Rather than mini soliloquies between each of ten courses, Campbell was simply beamed up on screen to introduce the menu from the start. Highlights for me included cleverly deconstructed piccalilli flavours: a cornichon, carrot, tiny turnip with stunning suckling pig terrine, awesome sweetbread ravioli of fabulous rich intensity accompanying veal rump and cheek; and two quirky cheese courses: beetroot ravioli stuffed with English goat’s cheese and delicate swatches of summer squash and a shot class of ultra light cream cheese, carrot and orange jellies plus a bon bon sized spicy carrot cake.
A consummate treat, and I know now to plump for the sweetbread ravioli on my next return to the Vineyard.
Saturday 4 August 2007
Sunday 22 July 2007
Ile de Ré
After yearning to visit Ile de Ré for years I finally made it. The little dot of an island on South Atlantic coast more than lives up to its protected reputation. Still very French and best if you can speak the language. Light is gorgeous as is the equal to the Cote d’Azur weather. Even none regular cyclists like myself end up notching up impressive amount of kilometres visiting impeccable whitewashed villages and charming ports and exploring wild life in salt marshes. Enough to justify plenty of feasting. Can stop for oysters en route overlooking sea 3E for 6 direct from farmer. Never seen such a large fish stall as at the daily market of Ars de Ré huge amount of shellfish from local mussels and crabs to six kinds of clams and local speciality vanets between queen scallop and clam. Sampled as a marmite in probably best restaurant encountered Le Serghi in St Martin en Ré. Other local specialities must try include tourteau cheese bread with scorched top, plentiful supply of canelles absolute favourite from nearby Bordeaux. Rétais produce Fleur de sel everywhere, which has a distinct discernible light delicacy, used in local cheeses, caramelised ham hocks on the traiteur, even in salted caramel ice-cream to accompany roast peaches dessert at St Martin’s newest restaurant Avant La Porte. Best places to stay are French run. Book well ahead for Le Senechel features in “Hip Hotel France” brick walls, unvarnished floorboards, bright stripy fabrics, quirky mix of ultra modern and brocante in best possible taste and exquisite courtyards.
www.le-senechel-com. Equally French and ultra elegant is Hotel Toiras in former private home, no expense spared in using best French fabrics even in lift, gorgeous garden for breakfast and indulgent salon dining room serving rigorously local produce exceptionally well prepared and served. www.hotel-de-toiras.com
Monday 9 April 2007
ROUX SCHOLARSHIP WHY IT MATTERS
It’s the complete antidote to the endless sub culinary TV contests which mostly be-little the value of competitive cooking events, yet borrows something of the Ready Steady Cook fun in including an element of surprise ingredients for the chefs to create a dishes from. Now in its 24th year, the Roux scholarship is arguably the most prestigious competition and significantly, the most coveted among serious-minded ambitious young chefs.
The pressure is real and considerable with no double takes for the benefit of TV cameras. Dishes are invariably complex Escoffier classics. This year was no exception: the six finalists had to cook Tournedos Rachel with veal kidneys and a Roux Bordelaise sauce and a somewhat bizarre sounding macaroni cheese souffle (which inevitably sounded far more elegant in French) plus a dessert from a mystery box including pineapple, Assam tea, lime and Fruisana fruit sugar and cooked under the extreme scrutiny of the most illustrious imaginable team of judges.
Aside from the full Roux contingent Michel Roux senior and his son Alain now in charge of The Waterside Inn and Albert Roux and his son Michel junior now running Le Gavroche , fellow judges include Heston Blumenthal, Gary Rhodes, Brian Turner, Andrew Fairlee (the first Roux scholar) and David Nicholls who hosted the event at The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park.
This year’s winner was 26 year-old Armand Sablon from the kitchen of past Roux scholarship winner Andre Garrett . I like the fact that not all finalists are from the well-known culinary A-list nor have been groomed in quite the same way as suspect Armand has been. Last year’s charming winner Pravin Sharma of Courthouse Hotel Kempinski whose spicing of a salmon and seabass coulibac made an overwhelming impression on the judges, despite the fact that he had not had a classical training and only arrived in the UK six months previously. Apart from the culinary kudos and the covetable cache of prizes from likes of Champagne Gosset, Global Knives , Caffee Musetti, and a week’s paid work experience in New York courtesy of Restaurant Associates what gives the championship inestimable value is the opportunity for the winning chef to cherry pick an expenses paid three months stage at one of the world’s top 3 Michelin chef kitchens. Easy to arrange as Michel Roux knows them all and is never refused. What’s more and is really endearing, all past winners become part of the Roux posse and really do get on-going advice, encouragement and all sorts of wonderful outings courtesy of Roux Brothers.
Significantly too the vast majority of past winners have gone on to become Michelin recipients with their own restaurants such as Steve Drake whose restaurant I found faultless when writing on restaurants around the M25 a few weeks back.
What made the evening extra enjoyable for the guests is the comedy act of the Roux dynasty who delight in publicly and affectionately teasing each other something rotten during the build-up to the announcement of the winner. And, of course, the decadent spread laid on by David Nicholls, executive chef at The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park who knows he has most of the country’s top chefs and restaurateurs to feed. Divine canapes which showcased the current most modish ingredients to graze on included: red pepper lollipops, foie gras parfait with pain epice and apple jelly, honey glazed pork belly, tartare of sea bass, lime, sesame and chive crust, tortellini of sole, horseradish cream and caviar, scallops with cauliflower pannacotta and curried beignets, bacon and balsamic, truffle risotto balls with parmesan cheese and truffle honey and coffee cup sized raspberry souffles and madeleine’s to finish.
www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
The pressure is real and considerable with no double takes for the benefit of TV cameras. Dishes are invariably complex Escoffier classics. This year was no exception: the six finalists had to cook Tournedos Rachel with veal kidneys and a Roux Bordelaise sauce and a somewhat bizarre sounding macaroni cheese souffle (which inevitably sounded far more elegant in French) plus a dessert from a mystery box including pineapple, Assam tea, lime and Fruisana fruit sugar and cooked under the extreme scrutiny of the most illustrious imaginable team of judges.
Aside from the full Roux contingent Michel Roux senior and his son Alain now in charge of The Waterside Inn and Albert Roux and his son Michel junior now running Le Gavroche , fellow judges include Heston Blumenthal, Gary Rhodes, Brian Turner, Andrew Fairlee (the first Roux scholar) and David Nicholls who hosted the event at The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park.
This year’s winner was 26 year-old Armand Sablon from the kitchen of past Roux scholarship winner Andre Garrett . I like the fact that not all finalists are from the well-known culinary A-list nor have been groomed in quite the same way as suspect Armand has been. Last year’s charming winner Pravin Sharma of Courthouse Hotel Kempinski whose spicing of a salmon and seabass coulibac made an overwhelming impression on the judges, despite the fact that he had not had a classical training and only arrived in the UK six months previously. Apart from the culinary kudos and the covetable cache of prizes from likes of Champagne Gosset, Global Knives , Caffee Musetti, and a week’s paid work experience in New York courtesy of Restaurant Associates what gives the championship inestimable value is the opportunity for the winning chef to cherry pick an expenses paid three months stage at one of the world’s top 3 Michelin chef kitchens. Easy to arrange as Michel Roux knows them all and is never refused. What’s more and is really endearing, all past winners become part of the Roux posse and really do get on-going advice, encouragement and all sorts of wonderful outings courtesy of Roux Brothers.
Significantly too the vast majority of past winners have gone on to become Michelin recipients with their own restaurants such as Steve Drake whose restaurant I found faultless when writing on restaurants around the M25 a few weeks back.
What made the evening extra enjoyable for the guests is the comedy act of the Roux dynasty who delight in publicly and affectionately teasing each other something rotten during the build-up to the announcement of the winner. And, of course, the decadent spread laid on by David Nicholls, executive chef at The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park who knows he has most of the country’s top chefs and restaurateurs to feed. Divine canapes which showcased the current most modish ingredients to graze on included: red pepper lollipops, foie gras parfait with pain epice and apple jelly, honey glazed pork belly, tartare of sea bass, lime, sesame and chive crust, tortellini of sole, horseradish cream and caviar, scallops with cauliflower pannacotta and curried beignets, bacon and balsamic, truffle risotto balls with parmesan cheese and truffle honey and coffee cup sized raspberry souffles and madeleine’s to finish.
www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
Sunday 8 April 2007
ELVERS: THE EPITOME OF AN EXTREME SEASONAL DELICACY
For self-avowed foodies like myself, it is no longer enough merely to do our best to eat in tune with the seasons. That’s as taken for read as devouring the latest mouth-watering gastro tome at bedtime (in my case Skye Gyngell’s “ MY Life in the Kitchen” and Sarah Woodward’s “The Food of France”).
What we really hanker after are those much anticipated ingredients of extreme and fleeting seasonality, which may only be around for a month or so. Their rarity, and in many cases the challenge of tracking them down, adds immeasurably to their culinary cachet.
One of the most recondite are elvers which I’ve long been intrigued to try and chefs such as Raymond Blanc and Mark Hix have raved about their fantastic, utterly distinctive sensation, but their outrageous cost and scarcity meant that the experience had eluded me for a long time, only adding to my insaitable gastronomic curiosity.
Elvers are transparent matchstick sized baby eels which instinctively make an extraordinary three year journey from the Sargossa Sea (a seaweed covered body of water between Bermuda and Puerto Rico, which is roughly the site of the infamous Bermuda Triangle) where they always spawn. No-one really understands their extraordinary migration pattern. Young eel larvae drift on the Gulf Stream for about three years travelling up to 4000 miles before reaching European fresh water rivers such as the River Severn where they evolve into juvenile elvers. They really are only fished with silk nets in estuaries of the Severn on nights with a new moon as they shy away from light. They have a barely there fishiness which has to be experienced rather like the freshest most delicate just fish anchovies.
Finally, I had my elver experience last week at The Goring’s elegant David Linley designed dining room where they’re included in a remarkably good scrupulously seasonal 3-course lunch menu £32.50 served with bacon, fried capers, crisp pig’s ear, poached egg and a lemon dressing – sensational and well-worth waiting for. (www.goringhotel.co.uk) I strongly advise all elver virgins should hurry along as they are unlikely to appear on the menu beyond April and do check they have netted a catch before counting on them. Elvers may also be found on the menu of the wonderfully glamorous seafood deluxe menu at Scott’s, re-designed by the hugely talented Martin Brudnizki (surely the next über restaurant designer). Dining at the green onyx and stingray-skin bar below the chartreuse green marble mosaics and breathtaking chandelier is as chic as snaring a table. Strictly seasonal sea vegetables such as sea beets, sea purslane, sea lettuce and slightly later in the season samphire often appear as wholly felicitous complements to sublime fish dishes. At Scott’s, elvers are currently served with Old-Spot bacon, equally extremely seasonal goose egg and wild garlic @ £35 for a starter! (www.scotts-restaurant.com)
What we really hanker after are those much anticipated ingredients of extreme and fleeting seasonality, which may only be around for a month or so. Their rarity, and in many cases the challenge of tracking them down, adds immeasurably to their culinary cachet.
One of the most recondite are elvers which I’ve long been intrigued to try and chefs such as Raymond Blanc and Mark Hix have raved about their fantastic, utterly distinctive sensation, but their outrageous cost and scarcity meant that the experience had eluded me for a long time, only adding to my insaitable gastronomic curiosity.
Elvers are transparent matchstick sized baby eels which instinctively make an extraordinary three year journey from the Sargossa Sea (a seaweed covered body of water between Bermuda and Puerto Rico, which is roughly the site of the infamous Bermuda Triangle) where they always spawn. No-one really understands their extraordinary migration pattern. Young eel larvae drift on the Gulf Stream for about three years travelling up to 4000 miles before reaching European fresh water rivers such as the River Severn where they evolve into juvenile elvers. They really are only fished with silk nets in estuaries of the Severn on nights with a new moon as they shy away from light. They have a barely there fishiness which has to be experienced rather like the freshest most delicate just fish anchovies.
Finally, I had my elver experience last week at The Goring’s elegant David Linley designed dining room where they’re included in a remarkably good scrupulously seasonal 3-course lunch menu £32.50 served with bacon, fried capers, crisp pig’s ear, poached egg and a lemon dressing – sensational and well-worth waiting for. (www.goringhotel.co.uk) I strongly advise all elver virgins should hurry along as they are unlikely to appear on the menu beyond April and do check they have netted a catch before counting on them. Elvers may also be found on the menu of the wonderfully glamorous seafood deluxe menu at Scott’s, re-designed by the hugely talented Martin Brudnizki (surely the next über restaurant designer). Dining at the green onyx and stingray-skin bar below the chartreuse green marble mosaics and breathtaking chandelier is as chic as snaring a table. Strictly seasonal sea vegetables such as sea beets, sea purslane, sea lettuce and slightly later in the season samphire often appear as wholly felicitous complements to sublime fish dishes. At Scott’s, elvers are currently served with Old-Spot bacon, equally extremely seasonal goose egg and wild garlic @ £35 for a starter! (www.scotts-restaurant.com)
Monday 19 March 2007
Decadent teas
I am extremely particular about patisserie. My exacting standards no doubt stem from my granny and mother’s prowess in cake-making rendering most shop-bought imitations resistible.
Pierre Hermé is another matter. I was transfixed by his utterly chic boutique in Paris (72 rue Bonaparte 75006) selling the most exquisitely and intensely fragrant macarons echelons above his nearest rivals. At this year’s Madrid Fusion gastro-conference showcasing the latest culinary thinking of some of the world’s more avant-garde chefs, Hermé demonstrated his latest savoury patisserie using mint and peas in all manner of patisserie guises including his much emulated “emotions”, multi-layered, flavoured and textured desserts in a shot glass. He gave the air of being a little bored with his sweet creations.
However, last week Hermé appeared to have regained his sweeter tooth to visit Claridge’s and demonstrate his legendary fetish patisserie haute classic collection: studies on three themes or “parfums”: “ispahan”, rose, raspberry and lychee; “satine” orange and passion: and “plenitude” dark chocolate with fleur de sel, cocoa nibs and caramel. Each was presented firstly as sweet sandwiches with fillings of intense almost perfumed fruit jellies of orange/passion fruit, raspberry/rose and a rich chocolate gianduja. I loved the scones which continued the theme and fully intend to experiment with the cocoa-nib version myself – wonderful with really good slightly salted French butter. Next up was a sublime wobbling, ethereally light passionfruit and orange cheesecake, a world apart from the usual stodgy offerings. Almost too chic to eat, the ispahan emotion with layers of lychee and raspberry jelly, fresh raspberries, compote and rose cream made for an exquisite palate cleanser. I followed instructions to delve the teaspoon all the way to the bottom for the full multi-textural experience. Of course, the legendary macarons were the piece de resistance: delicate hues of rose pink, palest tangerine and deep dark chocolate filled with a wonderful fleur de sel and chocolate ganache filling. They have a complex, yet utterly light texture that dissolves decadently on the tongue, yet is not as sweet as those found in the pale green Ladurée box more regularly invoked in London. Sadly, the macarons are only available at Hermé’s shops in Paris, which don’t have cafes of their own. Those in the know go to the neighbouring café de Maire (8 rue de Sulplice) his unofficial salon du thé. Here for the price of a coffee/tea the waiters in the upstairs salon look on indulgently as impatient foodies discreetly unwrap their precious Hermé trophies from quite the most covetable bags – like Matisse cut-out works of art in themselves. But the word is that Hermé was scouting London for possible sites for the future.
In the meantime, Claridge’s, undoubtedly the most elegant place for tea in London with its mesmerising elegant art deco details and spectacular chandelier have invited Herméback later in the year (www.claridges.co.uk)
Meanwhile, for an extreme patisserie challenge, Andrew Gravett, the highly talented head of patisserie at London’s two Michelin star Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge offers workshops on making one’s own macarons: a complex process involving Italian meringue, crème patisserie and much more. Ideally each stage is allowed to rest for a day before proceeding. It puts the prices of Hermé and other macaronniers in perspective. Fortunately Gravett’s course includes more achievable and repeatable petits fours and chocolates too. (Next dates 3 April, 5 June, 4 Sept bookings 7591 1215 www.capitalhotel.co.uk) .
Still on the tea trial, the newest, deeply glamorous place for tea is Artesian the contemporary Geisha boudoir style cocktail bar designed by David Collins within The Langham Hotel. Madonna has already held a party here. The teas were devised with the help, of former canapé Queen, now food consultant Lorna Wing and include tiny sandwiches each impeccably matching filling to specialist bread such as Wiltshire ham and wild rocket with mustard butter on light rye, tiny cheese and pancetta, triple citrus and coconut and lime muffins, teacup and saucer iced biscuits, glittery cupcakes , Ladurée macarons and mousse shots. As Artesian is also a cocktail bar, tea can be served with a rum cocktail or Laurent Perrier Rose. (Langham Hotel, Portland Place, W1 0207 636 1000 tea £25 per person (£38 with champagne/rum cocktail).
Pierre Hermé is another matter. I was transfixed by his utterly chic boutique in Paris (72 rue Bonaparte 75006) selling the most exquisitely and intensely fragrant macarons echelons above his nearest rivals. At this year’s Madrid Fusion gastro-conference showcasing the latest culinary thinking of some of the world’s more avant-garde chefs, Hermé demonstrated his latest savoury patisserie using mint and peas in all manner of patisserie guises including his much emulated “emotions”, multi-layered, flavoured and textured desserts in a shot glass. He gave the air of being a little bored with his sweet creations.
However, last week Hermé appeared to have regained his sweeter tooth to visit Claridge’s and demonstrate his legendary fetish patisserie haute classic collection: studies on three themes or “parfums”: “ispahan”, rose, raspberry and lychee; “satine” orange and passion: and “plenitude” dark chocolate with fleur de sel, cocoa nibs and caramel. Each was presented firstly as sweet sandwiches with fillings of intense almost perfumed fruit jellies of orange/passion fruit, raspberry/rose and a rich chocolate gianduja. I loved the scones which continued the theme and fully intend to experiment with the cocoa-nib version myself – wonderful with really good slightly salted French butter. Next up was a sublime wobbling, ethereally light passionfruit and orange cheesecake, a world apart from the usual stodgy offerings. Almost too chic to eat, the ispahan emotion with layers of lychee and raspberry jelly, fresh raspberries, compote and rose cream made for an exquisite palate cleanser. I followed instructions to delve the teaspoon all the way to the bottom for the full multi-textural experience. Of course, the legendary macarons were the piece de resistance: delicate hues of rose pink, palest tangerine and deep dark chocolate filled with a wonderful fleur de sel and chocolate ganache filling. They have a complex, yet utterly light texture that dissolves decadently on the tongue, yet is not as sweet as those found in the pale green Ladurée box more regularly invoked in London. Sadly, the macarons are only available at Hermé’s shops in Paris, which don’t have cafes of their own. Those in the know go to the neighbouring café de Maire (8 rue de Sulplice) his unofficial salon du thé. Here for the price of a coffee/tea the waiters in the upstairs salon look on indulgently as impatient foodies discreetly unwrap their precious Hermé trophies from quite the most covetable bags – like Matisse cut-out works of art in themselves. But the word is that Hermé was scouting London for possible sites for the future.
In the meantime, Claridge’s, undoubtedly the most elegant place for tea in London with its mesmerising elegant art deco details and spectacular chandelier have invited Herméback later in the year (www.claridges.co.uk)
Meanwhile, for an extreme patisserie challenge, Andrew Gravett, the highly talented head of patisserie at London’s two Michelin star Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge offers workshops on making one’s own macarons: a complex process involving Italian meringue, crème patisserie and much more. Ideally each stage is allowed to rest for a day before proceeding. It puts the prices of Hermé and other macaronniers in perspective. Fortunately Gravett’s course includes more achievable and repeatable petits fours and chocolates too. (Next dates 3 April, 5 June, 4 Sept bookings 7591 1215 www.capitalhotel.co.uk) .
Still on the tea trial, the newest, deeply glamorous place for tea is Artesian the contemporary Geisha boudoir style cocktail bar designed by David Collins within The Langham Hotel. Madonna has already held a party here. The teas were devised with the help, of former canapé Queen, now food consultant Lorna Wing and include tiny sandwiches each impeccably matching filling to specialist bread such as Wiltshire ham and wild rocket with mustard butter on light rye, tiny cheese and pancetta, triple citrus and coconut and lime muffins, teacup and saucer iced biscuits, glittery cupcakes , Ladurée macarons and mousse shots. As Artesian is also a cocktail bar, tea can be served with a rum cocktail or Laurent Perrier Rose. (Langham Hotel, Portland Place, W1 0207 636 1000 tea £25 per person (£38 with champagne/rum cocktail).
Sunday 11 March 2007
Foodie bookclubs
Belonging to a book club is almost a given, enjoying the chosen book is usually a matter of contentious dispute. My solution is to inaugurate a foodie bookclub, which friends, a little less foodie obsessed than myself have rapturously embraced – I’ve even had virtual strangers pleading to belong. The simple premise is that rather than using a book only a handful may regard as literature, we choose a cookbook. Either something new and overtly challenging like Nobu West, which requires some serious planning with visits to The Japan Centre for more esoteric ingredients (all part of the fun), hip writers with a refreshingly different approach such as Skye Gyngell’s “A Year in My Kitchen” or classics such as Claudia Roden. The beauty is that everyone arrives with tales of sleuth like shopping to track-down ingredients, conquering culinary techniques that have hitherto eluded them, some culinary tips and perhaps a few near disasters. Most importantly, a dish or two for a magnificent grazing feast and the pleasure of knowing that they’ve acquired a book which will have frequent outings from the bookshelf.
Who's heard of the M25 gastro-route?
Who’s ever heard of the M25 gastro-route?
It was only when Food & Travel magazine asked me to review a number of gastro-worthy restaurants and pubs around the M25 earlier this week that I discovered there was actually a nexus of extremely good places to eat around its junctions. All perfect meeting places for converging with food-minded friends from the furthest flung perimeters of its route.
My top 6
Drake’s Restaurant, Ripley, Surrey: junction 10
An exquisite, very proper and elegant Georgian house with beautiful walled garden. Michelin starred chef Steve Drake, a one-time Roux scholar, trained with Marc Veyrat and Tom Aitken and his extraordinarily accomplished, technically demanding and original approach to flavours is evidence of such illustrous training. Highlights include ratte potato wrapped in spinach with roasted cepes, poached sea bass with roast cumin aubergine, the finest crab risotto, grilled fennel and frothy fennel veloute, crème reversee (a French take on pannacotta) with apple sorbet and artfully arranged dried apple tuiles and mesmerizingly good and generous own-made petit fours.
The Clock House, 13 High St. Ripley 01483 224777
Chapter One, Locksbottom, Orpington: junction 4
As glamorous as the newest West End restaurant, but altogether more welcoming, chef Andrew McNeish’s menu is extremely appealing, cooked with great finesse and represents truly exceptional value for money (£28.50 for 3 courses). He may have temporarily lost his Michelin star this year, but no doubt it will shortly be restored. Dishes include Venison carpaccio with truffle and ice salad, poached and roast pigeon with fig and divine rice pudding brulee.
Farnborough Common, Kent BR6 8NF 01689 8544848
Alexander’s at Limpsfield, Surrey: junction 6
A newcomer with serious culinary aspirations and credentials. Chef Simon Attridge has worked with both Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal and their influence is apparent in stunning dishes notable for their clever contrasts of textures and flavours and his liking for high end surf n turf dishes such as pork macaroni with roasted langoustines served in a tiny copper pan, impeccable roast sea bass blissfully partnered with serrano ham, bone marrow, croutons and definitive chocolate fondant with salted caramel ice-cream Ultra-chic sympathetically restored 16c schoolroom/chapel in a bucolic village high street. The brasserie offers simpler dishes with similar attention to detail including rib-eye steak with Heston’s trademark triple-cooked chips
The Old Lodge, High St. Limpsfield, Oxtend, Surrey RH8 ODR
T 01883 714365
Jolly Farmer Emporium gastro-pub meets deli/farm shop, Buckland, Surrey: junction 8
A brilliant idea brought together with tangible commitment and enthusiasm by Jon and A lovely pub has been appealingly restored with a mix of leather sofas and proper dining, flagstones and local art and serving hugely generous portions of well-prepared food with an admirable emphasis on seasonal and local ingredients. Diver caught scallops with caperberries and raisins, local pork chop with cheese mash and roasted whole apple and sage sauce and bread and butter pudding. They’re soon to open for an ultra-low food mile breakfast using all local produce. The shop includes bread, cheese, meat, smoked fish, biscuits, jams and chutneys all produced by small local producers plus organic and gluten-free foods not found elsewhere in the neighbourhood.
Reigate Rd, Buckland, Surrey RH3 7BG 01737 221355
Colette’s at The Grove, Hertfordshire: junction 18/19
The fine dining restaurant of spectacular “groovy grand” hotel The Grove with extravagantly quirky décor and art and extremely accomplished and unaccountably under-rated cooking by Chris Harrod, whose CV includes Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons. Dishes are highly original and refreshingly light including ravishingly zingy crab with quivering lemon grass pannacotta, poached chicken with almond milk and spinach and caramelised apple with walnut biscuits and cinnamon ice-cream. Vegetarian dishes are extraordinarily enticing too.
Chandler’s Cross, Herts WD3 4TG 01923 296015
It was only when Food & Travel magazine asked me to review a number of gastro-worthy restaurants and pubs around the M25 earlier this week that I discovered there was actually a nexus of extremely good places to eat around its junctions. All perfect meeting places for converging with food-minded friends from the furthest flung perimeters of its route.
My top 6
Drake’s Restaurant, Ripley, Surrey: junction 10
An exquisite, very proper and elegant Georgian house with beautiful walled garden. Michelin starred chef Steve Drake, a one-time Roux scholar, trained with Marc Veyrat and Tom Aitken and his extraordinarily accomplished, technically demanding and original approach to flavours is evidence of such illustrous training. Highlights include ratte potato wrapped in spinach with roasted cepes, poached sea bass with roast cumin aubergine, the finest crab risotto, grilled fennel and frothy fennel veloute, crème reversee (a French take on pannacotta) with apple sorbet and artfully arranged dried apple tuiles and mesmerizingly good and generous own-made petit fours.
The Clock House, 13 High St. Ripley 01483 224777
Chapter One, Locksbottom, Orpington: junction 4
As glamorous as the newest West End restaurant, but altogether more welcoming, chef Andrew McNeish’s menu is extremely appealing, cooked with great finesse and represents truly exceptional value for money (£28.50 for 3 courses). He may have temporarily lost his Michelin star this year, but no doubt it will shortly be restored. Dishes include Venison carpaccio with truffle and ice salad, poached and roast pigeon with fig and divine rice pudding brulee.
Farnborough Common, Kent BR6 8NF 01689 8544848
Alexander’s at Limpsfield, Surrey: junction 6
A newcomer with serious culinary aspirations and credentials. Chef Simon Attridge has worked with both Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal and their influence is apparent in stunning dishes notable for their clever contrasts of textures and flavours and his liking for high end surf n turf dishes such as pork macaroni with roasted langoustines served in a tiny copper pan, impeccable roast sea bass blissfully partnered with serrano ham, bone marrow, croutons and definitive chocolate fondant with salted caramel ice-cream Ultra-chic sympathetically restored 16c schoolroom/chapel in a bucolic village high street. The brasserie offers simpler dishes with similar attention to detail including rib-eye steak with Heston’s trademark triple-cooked chips
The Old Lodge, High St. Limpsfield, Oxtend, Surrey RH8 ODR
T 01883 714365
Jolly Farmer Emporium gastro-pub meets deli/farm shop, Buckland, Surrey: junction 8
A brilliant idea brought together with tangible commitment and enthusiasm by Jon and A lovely pub has been appealingly restored with a mix of leather sofas and proper dining, flagstones and local art and serving hugely generous portions of well-prepared food with an admirable emphasis on seasonal and local ingredients. Diver caught scallops with caperberries and raisins, local pork chop with cheese mash and roasted whole apple and sage sauce and bread and butter pudding. They’re soon to open for an ultra-low food mile breakfast using all local produce. The shop includes bread, cheese, meat, smoked fish, biscuits, jams and chutneys all produced by small local producers plus organic and gluten-free foods not found elsewhere in the neighbourhood.
Reigate Rd, Buckland, Surrey RH3 7BG 01737 221355
Colette’s at The Grove, Hertfordshire: junction 18/19
The fine dining restaurant of spectacular “groovy grand” hotel The Grove with extravagantly quirky décor and art and extremely accomplished and unaccountably under-rated cooking by Chris Harrod, whose CV includes Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons. Dishes are highly original and refreshingly light including ravishingly zingy crab with quivering lemon grass pannacotta, poached chicken with almond milk and spinach and caramelised apple with walnut biscuits and cinnamon ice-cream. Vegetarian dishes are extraordinarily enticing too.
Chandler’s Cross, Herts WD3 4TG 01923 296015
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