After yearning to visit Ile de Ré for years I finally made it. The little dot of an island on South Atlantic coast more than lives up to its protected reputation. Still very French and best if you can speak the language. Light is gorgeous as is the equal to the Cote d’Azur weather. Even none regular cyclists like myself end up notching up impressive amount of kilometres visiting impeccable whitewashed villages and charming ports and exploring wild life in salt marshes. Enough to justify plenty of feasting. Can stop for oysters en route overlooking sea 3E for 6 direct from farmer. Never seen such a large fish stall as at the daily market of Ars de Ré huge amount of shellfish from local mussels and crabs to six kinds of clams and local speciality vanets between queen scallop and clam. Sampled as a marmite in probably best restaurant encountered Le Serghi in St Martin en Ré. Other local specialities must try include tourteau cheese bread with scorched top, plentiful supply of canelles absolute favourite from nearby Bordeaux. Rétais produce Fleur de sel everywhere, which has a distinct discernible light delicacy, used in local cheeses, caramelised ham hocks on the traiteur, even in salted caramel ice-cream to accompany roast peaches dessert at St Martin’s newest restaurant Avant La Porte. Best places to stay are French run. Book well ahead for Le Senechel features in “Hip Hotel France” brick walls, unvarnished floorboards, bright stripy fabrics, quirky mix of ultra modern and brocante in best possible taste and exquisite courtyards.
www.le-senechel-com. Equally French and ultra elegant is Hotel Toiras in former private home, no expense spared in using best French fabrics even in lift, gorgeous garden for breakfast and indulgent salon dining room serving rigorously local produce exceptionally well prepared and served. www.hotel-de-toiras.com
